Jon's third entry from South America takes us on a guided tour of Argentina's capital, Buenos Aires, with a look at the best parts to explore on a visit. From modern skylines to Tango in the backstreets, Jon shares his discoveries with us again through his stunning photography.
Words | Jon Reid
I must confess, my initial expectations were not positive. Too many times I heard the phrase, "Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America". As much as I like Paris, if it's Paris that I'm after, I would go to the real thing. Whenever I've visited a place that is referred to as a version of another place, I've been disappointed.
This is not the case with Buenos Aires. When you're in the city, you feel the grandeur and charm of a European city, but Buenos Aires has a distinct personality. If it were located in Europe, it would hold its own against the greats.
There are plenty of activities and sites to see in Buenos Aires, but to be succinct, the following were my top 6.
1. Puerto Madero
Puerto Madero is the modern, revitalised section of Buenos Aires. A skyline of skyscrapers, high class restaurants and painted cranes now occupy the space of the former derelict docks.
On any given evening, residents flock to the area either to exercise or to enjoy one of the many bars and restaurants lining the river.
In addition to all this, there is the bridge, designed by Calatrava.
The combination of old and new architecture, combined with the glamorous Buenos Aires crowd, makes Puerto Madero an attractive evening option.
2. Caminito
When I hear that a place is a tourist trap, the traveling snob in me wants to avoid it. Caminito is the biggest tourist trap in Buenos Aires. It taught me an interest lesson about tourist traps; they are great to visit. That's the reason they’re full of tourists.
Caminito is effectively an open air museum. Old Shanties have been painted every shade of bright and are occupied by art galleries.
In this colourful backdrop, Tango dancers busk for tips. I found a 'tango stage' in front of a restaurant, ordered a beer and enjoyed the world’s most evocative dance over a conversation with fellow tourists.
It's a tourist trap, but one of the most enjoyable excursions in BA.
3. Recoleta Cemetery
Tourists flock here in their thousands to see the tomb of Evita. Maybe it's because I haven't seen the movie, but I really don't get the draw. My advice is to race to the nondescript, Evita tomb, snap a selfie and then move on the explore the rest of the cemetery, which is a surreal experience.
This is the most expensive plot of land in Buenos Aires. Not only are the plots expensive, but the monthly maintenance fee is the equivalent of a rental fee for a living person.
The tombs match the extravagance of the cemetery. They are houses, giving the cemetery the appearance of an expensive neighbourhood.
The further you venture from Evita's tomb, the quieter it gets. It's a wonderful place to explore the various art styles through the centuries.
When you're done in the cemetery, explore the surrounding area, the most modern and expensive shopping in BA, for a dramatic contrast to the cemetery.
4. St Martin Square
St Martin Square is misleading, it should be called St Martin's sprawl. The area is a large green space in the downtown area, full of monuments and surrounded by an attractive skyline.
As it is borders on the commercial district, it provides an escape from the desk for business people.
My favourite part of the 'square' is an Art Deco skyscraper that comes with a tale that defines the Argentine spirit.
At one end of the square is a beautiful building called St. Martin Palace. It was once the residence of wealthy cattle merchants, who also built an equally beautiful church at the lower end of the square, in full view of the palace. The son of these merchants got engaged, but the family forbade the couple from getting married. The estranged woman, who also happened to be wealthy, built the large skyscraper in between the palace and the church, blocking the view of the chapel with a massive 'up yours'. Hell hath no fury...
5. Sant Elmo
This area has a striking resemblance to Notting Hill and just like Notting Hill, it is only worth visiting on Sunday, the market day.
The area is full of Bohemian stores and antique shops. The entire area is closed off to vehicles, which is a welcome break in this traffic mad city.
Enjoy exploring the markets and listening to the street musicians, most of which do contemporary takes on Tango.
6. Downtown Secrets
Anyone who has a vague interest in BA will recognise the giant obelix in the middle of the main avenue. Likewise, the Pink Palace and the National Congress are world famous landmarks.
It was not these downtown attractions that drew me to the area. Rather, I preferred wondering along the alleyways, walking into the old shopping centres. Each one felt like they contained their own secrets.
In one, I found a giant mural over a fountain, which I thought was quite a grand affair. In another, I found a viewpoint over the city which seemed to be completely undiscovered.
Before I uncovered this viewpoint, I ventured up another lift to the top floor. Whilst walking past conventional office facilities, I stumbled into a restaurant and art gallery. This was literally in the middle of office space on the fifth floor of a shopping centre. There were no signs advertising its presence. It made me wonder how many other secrets there are to discover for those who wonder off the beaten track.
Next on Jon's hit list is Iguazu Falls, Argentina, just south of the border of Brazil. You do not want to miss this one! One of the most epic views on the planet captured by one of the best landscape photographers we know, what a treat.
